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October 3, 2006

Turtle Conservation in Malaysia

I fell in love with turtles in Sipadan Island, Sabah, Malaysia. Hang around the jetty and you'll see turtles swimming up. When you snorkel, you're bound to see a handful. When diving, you stop counting how many turtles you've seen per dive - they are abundant, and everywhere. It was there that I first saw baby turtles nudging their inquisitive noses up from the nest, and clumsily flap their way to the ocean - their playground. It was on those shores that I learnt the cruel cycle of life - we saw birds swooping down on the scrurrying baby turtles. I saw the birds eat one alive. Acting purely on instincts, I ran to the turtle like a protective mother, wanting to shoo the bird away, but the tour operators held me back - "It's nature's way of life, let's not interfere", they advised.

And it was the tour operators that taught me conservation through their love. They explained that turtle eggs are sensitive, one cannot expose them to direct sunlight. So in the middle of the night, as soon as the mother turtle leaves the shore, they painstakingly move the eggs into a turtle nesting sanctuary. They work in the dark lest they disturb the other turtles who might still be laying eggs. No one is allowed to wander about at night, torchlights are banned as the turtles who are not used to being on land have very sensitive eyes, and they just cannot bear having light shining directly at their pupils. They eyes tear to protect itself, that's why you see them "crying" as they lay eggs.

Each nest has an average of 100-120 eggs. Out of this, only 1 baby makes it to adulthood. So you average one adult per nest. In Sabah, we have another turtle sanctuary/hatchery, an official one called Pulau Selingan. This island is more of an education centre for tourists. It was there that I learnt how baby turtles climb up their deep nests, the mystery surrounding their childhood, what they eat, their mating patterns. And my love for these graceful creatures grew. However, I sensed indifference in the way that Pulau Selingan conserves. They are paid to do it, it's not something they do out of love - so there is a difference. Still - an effort to conserve exists, that in itself should be good enough.

My friend recently visited those islands and was very moved by the entire experience. It made him realise what a heritage nature is, and the fragile state of the ecosystem. He is a journalist and he now preaches responsible tourism in his articles. Observing his reactions of Pulau Selingan made me realise how important educating citizens are. It moves them to make changes. So tourism efforts like Pulau Selingan should be applauded.

I've had bad tourism experience in Pulau Perhentian, Terengganu, Malaysia, where turtles are concerned. I was snorkelling when my boatman pointed out to me a turtle in the distance. I swam lazily towards it. Before I could make it there, two groups of tourists were already rushing towards the solo turtle. I saw them surrounding him. I saw them diving very close to the poor dear. I saw them make a sport out of who can dive close enough to touch the doe-eyed darling. And it broke my heart to see people behaving like this. This is the danger of tourism, business is more important than eco-responsibilities.

I once saw someone who had a picture of himself sitting proudly on top of a turtle's back while the turtle was laying eggs. I had tears in my eyes as I scolded him. I imagined how the camera flash hurt this underwater glider's eyes.

Recently there was a report about turtles in West Malaysia - they are virtually extinct. I've heard even more cruel practices there, though I've never been to that area to witness it myself. I heard that the folks there cage up any turtles they find laying eggs and don't allow these gentle creatures back into the water. They charge RM5 (approx USD1.35) for any tourist who'd like to see the turtles. The effect is extremely adverse because of their mating pattern. The male turtles await the female turtles in the shallow waters. They mate immediately after she lays her eggs. If the female turtle doesn't return to the waters after laying eggs, she won't mate, she won't get pregnant, she won't return next year.

Also - female turtles are highly habitual creatures. They will always return to the same beach to lay eggs. If they feel that the area is not safe for them to go ashore, more often than not they die along with the eggs in them. So please, practise responsible tourism.

If you see the Pay Per View malpractice that I described, please don't support it. If you're in a beach vicinity where turtles are likely to come up ashore to lay eggs, do be careful with your torch light when you take a night walk - don't shine out at sea or at any turtles. If you see plastic bags floating in the sea, pick it up - turtles eat jelly fish, and floating plastic bags look like jelly fishes, the gentle giants will choke on it. When you stumble onto a mummy turtle laying eggs, please don't go flash crazy and snap pictures. If you need to take shots, be discreet and quiet, turn your camera settings to anti-flash (better still just leave the poor turtle alone).

I cannot imagine our oceans without them, so please Save the Turtles (they are endangered).

written originally for mankindnews.com

posted by nyx at October 3, 2006 9:56 PM

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